Hub assembly Replacement :: Can-Pop Assembly

Hub assembly Replacement


Notes on front hub assembly replacement 4WD V6

Just wanted to help you guys out on replacing the front hub assemblies on a RAV4. I didn't take any pictures but I'll try to be as detailed as possible. My notes are for a 2007 4WD V6 Rav4. There might be some slight variation for other models but you'll definitely need a 30mm 12 point deep socket for all models.

First let me express how disappointed with how quickly BOTH my front hub assemblies have failed. My car only has 85K (which is high for a 2007) however we're talking about a frickin' toyota here. My passenger side was the worst of the 2 so i changed that first. I'll get around to the driver side hub assembly with pictures, as I'm hearing a faint whirring noise at 30+ mph.

Air tools are always nice but not necessary.
Tools required:
-17mm open end wrench
-breaker bar
-30mm 12 point DEEP or axle nut socket. (12 point is a must!)
-1/2" drive torque wrench capable of at least 215lbs/ft
-sockets varying from 12mm to 14
-(2) M8 hex (length doesn't matter as long it's at least an inch long.
-JACK STANDS! (don't skimp on this!)
-Medium or large size C- clamp

I struggled to loosen up the axle nut even with a breaker bar but managed to loosen it by jacking up the end of the bar w/ a spare jack and using the weight of the vehicle to break it loose. Even after loosening it the corrosion made it difficult to rachet it out. I stripped my axle nut which was frustrating because it would've cost me an additional 200 dollars for an axle if I couldn't salvage it. Luckily I was able to reuse the threads and tighten the axle nut all the way through.

1. Soak the axle nut with WD40 to penetrate the threads.
2. use a punch or screwdriver and hammer the notch out of the slot on the axle nut. Flare it out a little more to clear the threads on the axle.

OPTIONAL: I would've gone this route if I knew how seized the axle nut was. Find a buddy or mechanic who has air tools to break the axle nut loose and remove it for you. Offer him 10 or 20 bucks to help you. Trust me it's worth it and you're still saving some money. All he has to do is remove the wheel center cap and impact wrench it all the way out. After just clean the threads a bit and retorque the axle nut back to about 195lbs. Then drive back home and finish up the project. That is if you don't live too far.

3. Remove the wheel and now you have to remove the brake pads. Just remove the bottom bolt for the caliper and pivot the caliper up. This will free up your pads and allow you to take the inner and outter brake pad off. Make note of which pad was inner and outter.

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  • OE form, fit and function
  • OEM sensors and electronics for reliable Anti-Lock Braking (ABS), Traction Control (TC) and Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) System functions
  • Heavy duty balls for extended resistance to wear
  • Precisely engineered bearing races provide maximum load capacity and service life
  • Factory sealed assembly eliminates contamination

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